Discovering culture and friendship in China’s ‘Snow Capital’ Altay

By Huan Xiang, Han Liqun, Hu Renba
Altay Prefecture, located in the northwest frontier of China, sits in the northeast part of Ili Kazak autonomous prefecture in the north of Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region. It borders Mongolia to the east, Kazakhstan to the west, and Russia to the north.
From the pristine Kanas Lake, hailed as “a pure land on earth,” to the majestic landscapes of Koktokay and to the millennia-old rock paintings that earned Altay its global reputation as the “cradle of skiing,” this land is distinguished by its breathtaking natural beauty and profound cultural heritage.
“Come here, try our kebabs!” called out a man in slightly accented Mandarin. He is Percev Timofei Nikolayevich, affectionately known as Jima, a Kazakh national who now co-owns a barbecue restaurant in Beitun, Altay Prefecture, with his Chinese wife, Guan Xinlan.
Their story began at the Jeminay Port, a long-standing border crossing at the convergence of China, Kazakhstan, Russia, and Mongolia. With over a century of trading history, the port has long served as one of the most accessible gateways for China’s commerce with the three neighboring countries.
Since reopening more than 30 years ago, it has quickly regained its role as a regional trade hub. Spotting the opportunity, Guan opened a small eatery near the port in 2005 and learned Russian to serve foreign customers.
Jima, a long-haul truck driver on the China-Kazakhstan route, soon became her de facto language tutor. Known for his warmth and generosity, he helped Guan learn Russian while also supplying her with specialty ingredients from Kazakhstan. Their relationship blossomed, and the couple married in 2009. Jima chose to settle in Altay, where he now helps run their growing business.
In recent years, improved customs efficiency and a mutual visa exemption agreement between China and Kazakhstan have significantly facilitated cross-border movement. For Jima’s family, the prosperity of the port has laid the foundation for a fulfilling life. The booming popularity of Altay as a cultural and tourism destination has opened new opportunities. In April this year, they relocated their restaurant to Beitun, expanding their reach with signature Russian-style kebabs.
From truck driver to entrepreneur, Jima has made Altay his second home. “Altay is beautiful and well-connected, attracting visitors from neighboring countries and beyond,” he said.
Altay’s mountainous terrain is covered in snow for nearly a quarter of the year. In 2018, China’s National Climate Center recognized Altay as the “Snow Capital of China.” The region’s core ice-and-snow area spans more than 30,000 square kilometers, comparable to the Alps in Europe or the Rockies in North America, making it one of the world’s premier destinations for ski tourism.
In 2005, a herder discovered ancient cave paintings in an Altay valley depicting humans skiing on primitive boards with a single pole in hand to hunt. Confirmed by researchers, these drawings represent the earliest known evidence of human skiing activities, dating back between 10,000 and 20,000 years ago.
At an international seminar on ancient skiing culture held in Altay in January 2015, more than 30 experts from 18 countries, including Norway, Sweden, and Finland, reached a consensus recognizing Altay as the birthplace of human skiing.
Nestled in the Altay Mountains, Altay is often described as “a city built within a ski resort.” Its Jiangjunshan International Ski Resort, just 1.6 kilometers from the city’s central square, holds a national 5S alpine skiing destination. With annual snowfall depth exceeding two meters, its light, fluffy powder snow has earned it the nickname “Asia’s powder snow paradise.”
The resort also reflects the growing internationalization of China’s winter sports. “We’ve seen an increase in foreign visitors in recent years, from tropical countries like Malaysia to traditional winter sports nations such as Russia, South Korea, and Japan,” said Li Xia, head of the Jiangjunshan Mountain Ski Academy.
Altay has rapidly expanded its ski infrastructure in recent years. Apart from major resorts such as the Jiangjunshan and Koktokay international ski resorts, recreational ski facilities have been established in every county. During the most recent snow season, Altay welcomed 1.408 million ski tourists, a 23.37 percent year-on-year increase.
In Altay, traces of early human skiing meet the vibrancy of a modern, international winter sports hub. With snow as a bridge and culture as its core, this borderland continues to foster stories of friendship and connection.